There are few stories in skincare as rich, layered, and deeply human as that of Dr Inna Szalontay, Clinical Dermatologist and Co-Founder of Libi & Daughters. With a family legacy spanning over 250 years, beginning in the apothecaries of 18th-century Europe and reaching the court of Catherine the Great, Dr Inna carries a lineage where skincare was never about vanity, but about healing, dignity, and care. Today, from her Fitzrovia clinic, she blends this ancestral wisdom with modern dermatological science, offering women a radically different approach to skin health, one rooted in biology, patience, and respect for the body’s natural rhythms. In this conversation, Dr Inna invites us to view midlife skin not as a problem to fix, but as a story unfolding, one that deserves bespoke care, understanding, and honour.

Your family’s skincare legacy spans over 250 years, beginning with apothecary remedies crafted for Catherine the Great’s court. How has this lineage shaped the way you practise dermatology today?

It helps me to remember and understand where I come from. It sets a certain standard of quality, and by remembering my roots and who my ancestors were, I simply cannot allow myself to lower that level of quality.

My great-great-grandmother, who worked with Catherine II, was named Libi; that’s why I named the company Libi & Daughters. She wrote a special list of commandments that have been passed down from generation to generation in our family.

These commandments are very interesting and remain incredibly relevant in modern practice. For example, one of them says never to harm the patient, that our goal is always the patient’s health and not their money. Another says that if a patient doesn’t follow your professional advice, you shouldn’t continue working with them or waste your life and energy.

So, principles like these continue to guide me in my work today.

Many women in midlife experience sudden changes in their skin texture, elasticity, and sensitivity. From your clinical perspective, what is actually happening to skin during this stage, and why does it feel like everything shifts at once?

Throughout a woman’s life, we go through several stages. The first major phase is puberty, when we stop being children and our body’s purpose shifts from growth to reproduction. During this time, it’s completely normal for girls to experience acne and hormonal changes.

Later, in midlife, we face another significant transformation as our hormones begin to change again. These hormonal shifts directly affect the skin, and this period becomes, in a way, our last real chance to keep our body and skin youthful for as long as possible. The time, effort, and care we invest during this stage through exercise, healthy nutrition, high-quality skincare, and reducing inflammation truly determine how we will look and feel in the future.

What actually happens inside the body is that over time, we accumulate various bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites, all of which cause inflammation. If you can imagine it like this, our body is a planet, and these microorganisms are like different countries. When more and more countries are at war, the entire planet suffers. The same happens within us: the more inflammation there is, the more our organs and tissues are compromised, and the faster ageing progresses.

These internal inflammations, combined with hormonal changes, put a lot of stress on the body and weaken the immune system. As a result, the skin loses its ability to repair and protect itself as effectively, which is why everything seems to change all at once.

Libi & Daughters blends time-honoured formulas with modern dermatological science. Could you share an example of an ancestral remedy you’ve reimagined using today’s technology?

One of the clearest examples is our N°62 Calming Ointment, which was inspired directly by an ancestral soothing balm passed down through my family. Historically, my grandmother created a simple but powerful preparation made from calendula, chamomile, and beeswax ingredients used in apothecaries of the 18th century to calm irritation, heal the skin, and protect against harsh climates.

For N°62, we honoured this traditional recipe but rebuilt it using modern dermatological understanding and stabilisation techniques.

Today’s formula blends Calendula and chamomile extracts, echoing our original remedy, but now purified and standardised for consistent anti-inflammatory action. Chickweed extract, a historic herb used to reduce itching and redness, was carried into a richer, more bioavailable format. Cetyl esters and glycerin to enhance hydration and improve barrier restoration. Olive and sunflower oils, cocoa butter, lanolin, and white beeswax are natural emollients chosen both for their ancestral relevance and their scientifically proven ability to soften, shield, and repair the skin. Rosemary extract and vitamin E are modern antioxidant additions that protect against oxidative stress and support long-term skin resilience.

What was once a simple, handmade salve is now a clinically informed, dermatologically optimised barrier ointment that soothes inflammation, restores comfort, and protects sensitive or reactive skin.

It represents exactly what Libi & Daughters stands for – heritage remedies elevated by modern science, timeless wisdom, reimagined for today’s skin.

With so many skincare brands promising “quick fixes,” how do you help women understand the difference between marketing claims and truly science-backed, dermatologist-formulated solutions?

The biggest difference is biological coherence. A truly effective product works with the skin’s physiology, not against it, not overnight, and not through aggressive disruption.

I always encourage women to look for:

• Clinical percentages of active ingredients
• Published studies or data on the key components
• Formulations created or supervised by dermatologists
• Products designed to support the skin barrier, not compromise it

Quick fixes often create short-term brightness but long-term inflammation. Science-backed skincare focuses on collagen health, cellular energy, barrier repair, and cumulative results.

Hormonal changes in perimenopause and menopause often create new concerns, such as dryness, inflammation, breakouts, and redness. What foundational steps do you recommend women take to recalibrate their skin during this hormonal transition?

During perimenopause and menopause, dryness, inflammation, breakouts, and redness are not problems of the skin itself; the skin is a symptom, not the cause. The true origin of these changes lies in hormonal shifts taking place within the body.

This is why treatment during this stage must work from the inside out. A woman needs significantly more internal support during this period. Regular movement and physical activity are essential, as they help regulate hormones and reduce systemic inflammation. Sleep also becomes critical ideally before 10 p.m. to allow the body to release the correct hormones and fully recover overnight.

Nutrition plays a central role as well. Beginning the day with natural daylight exposure and adopting a more alkaline, anti-inflammatory diet can significantly reduce inflammatory processes in the body. Most ageing mechanisms are closely linked to chronic inflammation, hormonal imbalance, insufficient support, and nutritional deficiencies. These factors form the foundation that must be addressed first when treating skin changes at this stage of life.

This phase is extremely delicate and as fragile as puberty. Just as a 12 or 13-year-old girl requires special care when her body begins to change, a woman in midlife must be especially attentive to her symptoms, her body, and her overall lifestyle. The way she supports herself during this period will directly influence how she feels and looks for decades to come, particularly once menopause is established.

When it comes to skincare, a general approach is simply not sufficient. Skincare during this time must be bespoke, dynamic, and individually formulated. Each woman presents a unique combination of symptoms, sensitivities, and needs. Saying “cleanse, tone, and moisturise” may sound correct, but it offers no real solution. True results come only from personalised formulations designed specifically for the individual woman and her skin at that moment in time.

You take a personalised, holistic approach to skincare. When a midlife woman comes to you feeling discouraged by her reflection, where do you begin, emotionally and scientifically?

I begin by listening. Emotional well-being is deeply intertwined with how we perceive our skin.

Scientifically, I conduct a detailed assessment of barrier function, inflammation levels, hormonal history, and lifestyle factors. Emotionally, I remind her that ageing is not a loss, it is an evolution.

I built her a plan that is realistic, gentle, and transformative. When women see that their skin can become radiant, firm, and stable again, their confidence returns quickly. It is one of the most beautiful parts of my work.

The Libi & Daughters philosophy has deep roots in resilience, healing, and the wisdom passed down through generations of women. How do you see skincare as a form of emotional inheritance as much as a physical one?

In my family, skincare rituals were moments of connection between mothers teaching daughters, grandmothers passing on recipes, wisdom, and a sense of dignity.

I believe that caring for the skin is an act of self-respect that can be taught, inherited, and cherished. It’s not only about the formulas; it’s about the message we pass on:

Your well-being matters. You are worthy of care. Ageing is not something to hide; it is something to honour.

Many women feel overwhelmed by multi-step routines. What does an effective, sustainable routine look like for someone in her 40s, 50s, or 60s, especially with sensitive or changing skin?

The effectiveness of a skincare routine is not determined by the number of steps, but by the quality, relevance, and regularity of what you apply to the skin.

Every woman comes to me with a unique skin condition, a distinct history, and individual needs. For some, an effective ritual may consist of just two carefully chosen steps; for others, five steps are necessary. What matters is not how many products you use, but whether those formulas are precisely selected for your skin at that moment.

Skincare works in the same way as brushing your teeth. It is not an occasional effort; it is the daily, consistent care that creates long-term results. The skin responds to what is done every day, not to intensity or complexity.

Equally important is understanding that the skin should not be exposed to ingredients, even beneficial ones such as vitamins or peptides, if they are not needed or are contraindicated for a particular person. When the skin receives unnecessary substances, it must spend energy eliminating them. This creates an additional, avoidable burden.

Instead of preserving its resources for renewal and resilience, the skin is forced into defence. Over time, unsuitable formulas can weaken the skin barrier, reduce immunity, and compromise overall skin health.

A truly sustainable routine is individual, consistent, and respectful of the skin’s biology, supporting its strength

You’ve spoken about tailoring skincare to each individual. What are the most common mistakes you see women make, and how can they simplify without compromising results?

The most common mistake I see is that women self-prescribe skincare instead of following professional expertise. Many choose products based on advertising, trends, or influencer recommendations rather than medical evaluation or an understanding of their own skin biology.

This often leads to using products that are not appropriate for their skin condition. Introducing active ingredients without proper indication.Treating the skin aggressively instead of supporting its natural repair mechanisms. Constantly changing routines based on external advice, not allowing the skin time to respond. Treating symptoms instead of addressing underlying causes

At Libi & Daughters, we believe skincare should be guided by knowledge, not noise. The skin is a complex organ, and even beneficial ingredients can become counterproductive if they are unnecessary or unsuitable for a particular individual.

Simplification begins when women stop chasing trends and start trusting expertise. When a routine is built on proper diagnosis, barrier support, and consistent care, fewer products are needed, and results become more stable, visible, and long-lasting.

True efficacy comes from precision and continuity, not from excess.

If you could offer one message to midlife women about ageing and skin confidence, rooted in both science and your family’s centuries-old wisdom, what would it be?

Ageing is not something the skin does to us; it is something life writes through us. From a scientific perspective, the skin remains responsive, intelligent, and capable of renewal at every stage when it is supported correctly. From my family’s wisdom, I have learned that beauty was never about resisting time, but about moving through it with dignity.

When you care for your skin with patience, consistency, and respect, it responds with strength, calm, and luminosity. Confidence does not come from trying to look younger; it comes from feeling at home in your own skin.

My message to midlife women is this: Your skin is not failing you. It is evolving with you. Honour it, support it, and allow it the time it needs, and it will reflect the depth, resilience, and beauty of the life you have lived.

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What emerges so clearly from this conversation is that Dr Inna’s work is about far more than products or routines; it is about restoring trust. Trust in the skin as an intelligent, responsive organ. Trust in the body’s ability to renew when supported correctly. And trust in ourselves as women moving through time, not against it. Her message is both scientific and soulful: ageing is not failure, it is evolution. When we care for our skin with consistency, precision, and respect, it responds with calm, resilience, and quiet radiance. Perhaps the greatest gift of Dr Inna’s centuries-old wisdom is this reminder: confidence doesn’t come from trying to look younger, but from feeling at home in the skin you are in, exactly as you are becoming.

If my words have helped you, a small contribution here will allow them to continue reaching the women who need them most. Also, don't forget to join me on Substack, where I share my Love Notes, a gentle pause in your week to reflect, realign, and reconnect in midlife. It’s not just another newsletter; it’s an intimate circle where I offer fresh intentions, soulful prompts, and simple but powerful shifts to inspire purposeful, creative living. Together, we’ll uncover the small but meaningful changes that help you design a life that feels beautifully your own.